Best of Lisbon
Belém Lisbon: Custard Tarts, Tower, and Maritime History
Belém is Lisbon's historic waterfront quarter — the point from which Vasco da Gama set sail to discover the sea route to India in 1497, now preserved as a monumental zone of UNESCO-listed architecture, world-famous pastry shops, and museums that tell the story of Portugal's extraordinary Age of Discovery. It lies 6 kilometres west of Lisbon's historic centre, reachable by tram, train, or the riverside cycling path that is the most pleasant route.
The Pastéis de Belém bakery, open since 1837, produces the original pastel de nata in the recipe kept secret by the monks who invented it — the custard tart that became Portugal's most recognisable food export. The queue outside Pastéis de Belém is constant, but the interior is vast and the production continuous; expect a 15-20 minute wait on weekend mornings that is entirely worth the fresh-from-the-oven result. Eat them warm, dusted with cinnamon, standing at the counter.
The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos — a Manueline-style monastery built to celebrate Vasco da Gama's successful return — is one of the most ornate religious buildings in Europe, its cloister a masterpiece of maritime-themed stone carving that took over a century to complete. The Belém Tower in the river, the Monument to the Discoveries on the waterfront, and the MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) in a striking riverside building complete a Belém day that spans five centuries of Portuguese history in under two kilometres of walking.